The wood will also wear around the screw as water repeatedly seeps through it, resulting in reduced strength and possible rot around the screw body. First of all, the 10 is primarily used when putting metal roofing down over purlins. Although in the past many buildings used 10 screws into OSB, today this is generally not up to code in most states. Galvanized to protect against corrosion, they typically last decades under normal wear and tear.
Jake Sales also carries a slightly different variant of the 10 roofing screw, one with a Mini Driller point. Although the standard metal roofing screw point does an excellent job of binding metal to wood, even without a hole being pre-drilled, some contractors like to use a metal roofing screw with slightly different point that has less of a need to have a pre-drilled hole in the metal. However, generally you are going to want to pre-drill all screw holes to ensure that the lines of screws line up neatly and straight across the roof.
This is done by stacking the roofing on the ground and drilling the screw holes through every sheet at once. Metal roofing screws are designed to hold metal to wood, using them to hold wood to wood is not a recommended use and can result in roofing problems, including bulges in the roof where the screw heads are preventing the metal from lying down flat against the underlayment. Another usage case for metal roofing screws is when a roof is being redone. Sometimes a metal roof is in need of refastening, not replacing. Older screws may have weakened and started to corrode, allowing water to seep in around the holes and get into the house.
Older screws can also begin to back out of their holes, making the roofing vulnerable to wind. The shape of an Earthship is typically very narrow and very long. This is by no means an optimal shape for material conservation or energy conservation.
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Mike Reynolds says it's safe, but he says a lot of stuff that doesn't add up so I personally would want to see some research on healthy indoor air quality before I spend the rest of my life living inside a stack of old tires. Growing food in a cold-climate greenhouse creates a very humid environment, and a fundamental principle of the Earthship is food production on the south facade and transferring that heated air into the living space.
So in order to take advantage of that passively heated air, you will greatly increase the interior relative humidity of your house. Combine that with un-insulated exterior walls and you have the ideal environment for condensation to collect and mold to form. We are strong proponents of greenhouses, even in cold climates and small scale food production, but they are not an environment that is sensible for human habitation as they won't heat in cold climates.
They are also mandatory in some regional building codes, but they are not found in Earthships. Instead, an Earthship gets ventilation through what they call earthtubes, and ventilation openings in the roof. To know if that's really a good idea for the planet, you would need to realistically calculate how much food you could produce in that space compared to how much heat could have been passively generated and decide which improves your carbon footprint. We would argue for the heat gain. To have any reasonable semblance of feeding yourself and your family you would need a garden somewhere in the area of 10, square feet.
Growing a bit of food in your living room is wonderful, but it will not offset your carbon footprint anywhere near as much as a passively heated house would. The thing is, if you're thinking of building an Earthship you'll need a fairly large piece of land, so why not go for the healthier and more efficient passive heating option and build a greenhouse somewhere else on your property? The reason you can't is because it doesn't fit with official ideology and image. This is not a cheap or easy way to build, period.
As for operating your home harmoniously using the aforementioned 'earthly phenomena', don't forget the cost of a woodstove, a generator, propane tanks, foam panels and tens of thousands for a solar array and battery backup system. You'll need a lot more than tires, dirt and pop cans. Instead, he uses a loose interpretation of the laws of physics to create a very believable but inaccurate narrative to sell the Earthship brand and image in climates far beyond their functional range. The leading edge of high-end Green home building design has advanced so far beyond the Earthship that it is simply irrelevant at this point.
Unfortunately temperature analysis of the Brighton Earthship has demonstrated that the lower ground temperatures in England cause an un-insulated floor to act like a bottomless drain on the internal heat rather than a store for it. The team have learned from this, but it is a mistake that could have been avoided had other advice been heeded. Except that temperature is based on an average of days. Don't let this clickbate nay sayer fool you. There are plenty of functional earthships in the great white north.
Even the example quoted of the Alberta home using back up heating is taken terribly out of context as if you actually watch the video you will see that this back up heating was being used in an extremely rare situation of multiple days of low to no sunlight. Further more there are many styles and versions of earthships around the world designed to make them adaptable to the environment and geographic location.
Here is the video. If I lived in an Earthship with no heat I would have had to wear winterboots and a parka the whole time, that would have sucked! So make a case, I'm all ears. Perfectly written for someone who has never lived in an eco-home. I live in and built my Earth Sheltered not Earthship home 6 years ago. We have massive concrete foundations and bare polished floors. The floors are cooler in the winter but only to approx.
Celsius 59 deg. Fahrenheit without heating the floor! That whole thing about 6 deg.
Celsius floor temp is a load of BS! There are way too many variables in determining temperature of thermal mass some of which you obviously missed.
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Yes we use propane when we need it, but our biomass heating and solar thermal units work just fine thank you. We are extremely pleased with our "Hobbit Hole" and very comfortable when it dips to here in Ontario. If you want to get real Good morning Can Adian, it's been a while since you wrote this, I am interested in planning and earth sheltered. Whereabouts in Ontario are you located? Very interested in building an underground home. How to get started,? What's involved? Hello Faria, my wife and I stumbled upon your remarks to Can Adian in the web site ecohome.
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We are also wanting to build an underground or earth bermed house. Great work on doing a green roof, and congratulations for an excellent LEED rating. Generating power and feeding the grid is a great thing to do, particularly in a region that is otherwise fed by fossil fuel generated power. Sounds like a great house. I'm not sure what has upset you so much about this article if you didn't build an Earthship. Is it the suggestion that your house would be more efficient and more comfortable with floor insulation? Without a doubt you would burn less wood and your feet would be more comfortable if your floor was insulated.
We hoped that amount of insulation might be enough for comfort without floor heat but included radiant tubing in case, and we are glad we did. It would be great if you could back up your claim about 'BS', and explain the 'variables' I've missed in thermal mass. In the absence of that, for the moment I will try to clear up the ground temperature issue the way I see it in your particular case -.
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You may not have a radiant floor but you are heating the floor, and the ground below you, the air of your house is doing that. The concrete floors in the thermal images included above also have no in-floor heat, and you can see that the floor temperature is higher with greater insulation. If you were to dig down you would find the temperature gradually falls off until it meets the natural temperature of the Earth. These are just the laws of physics, I don't write them, I just try to explain them in layman terms.
When I first asked our engineer if I could quote him in the article, this is the email I got with what he wanted me to include, and I'm still not sure if he was kidding. I couldn't bring myself to include it above, but for you Can Adian, I will.
2. Rough framing
If you want to tussle over how thermal mass and conductivity works, this is the guy you are up against and you'd be braver than me! Best regards, the other Mike.
Since these 3 values are intensive properties i. Using these values, it is possible to calculate the depth at which the temperature will stay constant given a sinusoidal temperature variation in the environment. Can Adian, you are quick to assume what kind of homes MR has and hasn't lived in. I think I know of which home you are talking about, I would like to remind you that this was never officially certified LEED without the 's'. Please don't make false claims otherwise. Why wouldn't you just use a geothermal heat exchanger for heating? Good question Brad, thanks - geothermal is great, but unless we're talking about different things here, its rarely something that can be done yourself - If you have a farm and your own excavator you can dig a deep enough trench to install tubing yourself, but short of that you'd need a well truck to dig holes and that doesn't come cheap.
Conversely if you spent that 30K or even just a portion of it on more insulation, you'd be able to drop your bills way more than half. It's a great solution for heating, its just that the cost is so high you really need a big heating bill to make cutting it in half worth the money.
So its a great idea for larger buildings like multi-unit residential or commercial.